My jaw
dropped when I entered Lodi Garden on a Friday afternoon, looking for peace,
quiet and me-time. It was swarming with people. What did so many people have
time for in the middle of an afternoon, on a weekday, I wondered. I’d just quit
my job, and had spent the last week oscillating between feelings of exhilarating
freedom and unproductivity. I’d planned for this Lodi Garden trip to be my
little escapade, a chance to stretch in the winter sun. And, at the back of my
mind, was a niggling thought to test out whether that space was open to a woman
by herself – not jogging, but doing nothing.
A long line
of students walked past me near the entrance, all girls, in green salwar kameez for uniforms, some with a
mustard brown sweater on. Continuously jabbering, walking in small groups of
three or four, I noticed with amusement that each group went stiff and quiet
when they walked past an open gym, where a bunch of young men were exercising.
The men, flattered at the attention, returned the favour.
Lodi Garden
seemed to be the flavour of the day for schools. Little boys in navy blue
school uniforms run amok, screaming, weaving through the broken monuments in
the garden. Girls and boys didn’t speak with each other – the presence of a
teacher probably had something to do with that – but I felt sad that
mixed-gender discussions had to be kept clandestine, outside of school
boundaries.
The
cacophonic school groups had taken up most of the initial parts of the huge
garden. My dreams of lazing about near a centuries-old monument had to be
forfeited. I walked ahead… As the garden began to quieten down, the grass began
to be dotted with couples in varied stages of engrossed discussions. Some
cuddled, some had the partner lying on the other’s lap, and in another, a woman
kneeled on the ground with her hands on her partner’s lap, as if she were
trying to hard explain something and seek his understanding. One woman fed
mouthfuls of food to her partner (I assumed), until a third person came about
to join them.
I settled for
a spot in a corner of a grassy slope that offered a vantage view. I saw so many
pairs of men and women walking around; girls I groups; men in suits lying on
the grass, soaking up the sun; garam
pakode and chai for sale; two
people with cameras slung across their shoulder; another photographer duo who
were carrying flowers, and I wondered if one of those cheesy pre-wedding shoots
was going on (I sighed about being judgmental); several foreigners, a bunch of
international students – kids from across the world – who were running about
screaming; a man with a dog (that looked like it had starred in an ad for Pedigree)
that he cuddled and played with; a group of men who’d dozed off with scarves
for pillows. A pair of eagles chased each other, swooping by very close to the
ground near me, making me draw back in shock and fear. A stray dog jogged up
close, trying to be friendly. A group of women in bright, rainbow-coloured kurtas and sweaters walked about,
clearly enjoying an extended lunch what looked like working women on an
extended lunch break to celebrate the end of the week.
I got myself
a cup of tea from the passing chaiwallah.
It was sweet beyond words, but the heat felt soothing. So far, nobody had as
much given me a second glance for being a lone woman dawdling about on the
grass. I was surprised; jogging in the park near my home, only a few kilometres
away, would have earned me a few stares. How was the Lodi Garden miraculously
free of this gaze? Maybe it’s the presence of women in general, be it with
other women or men. Or maybe it was because there were enough women feeling
free enough to pose: the bride-to-be (I was right about the pre-wedding
shoot!), girls taking selfies and women posing away for their male and female
friends to click. It felt liberating. If only all of Delhi could be this way!
But all the
while, I had one thought I wasn’t giving enough attention to. So far, I’d not
ventured to lie down on the grass like my fellow lone male Lodi Garden loafers.
Did I dare? I looked at my watch. I’d spent close to two hours simply looking
around and occasionally writing in my notebook. The group of men who’d dozed
off with scarves for pillows got up to leave. Taking that as a cue, I walked up
to a mound of grass, lay down and pulled out my Kindle. Why not?
Vani Viswanathan is a feminist and co-founder/editor of the online literary magazine spark.
Vani Viswanathan is a feminist and co-founder/editor of the online literary magazine spark.
Nice post. Enjoyed reading it. Lodi Garden is a city park situated in New Delhi and is a hotspot for morning walks for the Delhiites. In the middle of the garden is the Bara Gumbad also called Shisha Gumbad for the glazed tiles used in its construction. It is an important place of preservation. For more details check Lodi Garden .
ReplyDelete